Guide to the South Downs
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“I am extremely happy walking on the downs...I like to have space to spread my mind out in.”
― Virginia Woolf
The beautiful South Downs located in the south of England where I spend most of my time when I’m in England. I’m not going too much in depth about my personal feelings as this will turn into a boring and lengthy post. So links, hotspots, hotels, restaurants, museums, gardens and shops instead.
Lewes East Sussex
Because Lewes is a rather small town you can do most things on foot. High on my list is the Lewes Antiques Centre at 20 Cliffe High Street. There are more really lovely shops on Cliffe High Street so you can’t go wrong there. Have lunch at Bill’s, shop for lovely goodies at Leadbetter and Good and Nørd.
The other great street for shopping and eating is High Street. My favourites are Closet & Botts for shopping and Flint Owl Bakery for eating. Don’t forget to visit the iconic White Hart Hotel where many Bloomsbury group members stayed. I personally stay at my friend’s house so I can’t really recommend a hotel in Lewes but in nearby Alfriston is Deans Place that is just lovely and a perfect place if you wan to visit Charleston Farm and Alfriston.
Charleston Farm House
Again I’m not going too much into detail but if you are in the South Downs you must visit all things Bloomsbury and Charleston Farm House is the home of the Bloomsbury group, home to Vanessa and Clive Bell and Duncan Grant. You can visit the house, the garden and the shop. I recommend visiting Charleston in May or early June as the garden is at its best.
On the A27, between Lewes and Charleston, you should stock up at Middle Farm Shop. And if you follow the A27 you can head to the village of Alfriston.
Alfriston East Sussex
Although super small in size Alfriston is grant in charm. Walk out of the village and you are in the beautiful South Downs countryside. Have a hearty lunch at Badgers Tea House and enjoy all the quirky shop that this village has to offer.
Do not leave the town without shopping at Much Ado Books. This shop is so darling that I could move in. You can find all sorts of books in this shop, but they have a great South Downs and Bloomsbury collection. The owner often bakes biscuits that he hands out when you buy something - how lovely is that?
Berwick East Sussex
Visit Berwick church that’s been decorated by Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant. Park your car at the car prak and walk down to The Cricketers Arms for a really lovely meal. When you go in May you can eat outside in their beautiful pub garden, if you go in June or July you can enjoy the hollyhocks outside Berwick Church wall.
Rodmell and Monk’s House
Your next “Bloomsbury” related stop is Monk’s House the home and garden where Virgina en Leonard Woolf lived their last years.
Do not skip this visit as you will love it, you will fall in love with Virginia and Leonard, you’ll definitely never want to leave and you should totally ignore the silly people that visit the place and do not understand why Virginia committed suicide whilst living in such a beautiful place. I would leave everything behind and move to Monk’s House if I were asked. Walk your way down the village to the river Ouse for a bit of nostalgia.
In this area also visit the town of Arundel and the Arundel Castle gardens, don’t bother paying for the castle itself as it’s not worth it, it’s the gardens you want to see. Go to Seven Sisters a row of 7 white cliffs and walk the amazing Devil’s Dyke for the best South Down views.
I can highly recommend to become a National Trust member (even if you are not British) as after two entrance fees you will break even and you support the amazing work and all the NT volunteers.
Petworth West Sussex
Oh Petworth my favourite town in all the land. It’s “Yvestown proof English” and people who know me well, instantly know what I mean. In two words; clean and organised.
Stay at The Welldiggers Arms, eat there and ask for a room facing the back. What a lot of people don’t know is that you can walk a really exciting little path there. At the foot of the car park on the right side is a small path that leads you into another world. It used to be a train track and now you actually walk under the tree roots, it’s magical.
Shop at Tallulah Fox for the best gifts and home deco. Have lunch at my friend Cherry Menlove, she runs a deli and bakery on Golden Square. We’ve known each other for years and if you tell her you know me she’ll be so happy and I’ll be so happy and you will be even happier.
Petworth House is a must visit, the kitchen … you must see the kitchen and you must hug all the massive trees.
If you drive out of town towards the beautiful town of Midhurst you will pass Tillington and in Tillington there’s the Horse Guards Inn my favourite pub of all time. It comes with an amazing decor, pub garden with chickens and a shed where you can buy lovely handmade items.
There’s more to see, more to do but this trip alone already takes about a good week so I’m going to end here. I’ve mapped this trip out for you on Google Maps. You can follow the link save it to your maps and use it as navigation on your trip. There will be more East England guides in the future you can combine with this trip.
Love, Yves
Beautiful photographs. I grew up in West Sussex - near East Grinstead. ☺️